The Seasons of Uruguay

Many first time travelers to the Southern Cone of South America (Uruguay, Argentina, and Chile) are often surprised to learn that there are four distinct seasons across the region. Montevideo, the Southern most capital city in the Western Hemisphere, enjoys a prime spot where the Southern Atlantic Ocean and Rio de la Plata meet, giving it a distinct weather system.

With no mountains nearby (the highest elevation in Uruguay is just about 500 meters / 1,700 feet above sea level) storms roll over the city quickly. We often watch them form over the water from the terrace of our apartment, and it is not uncommon for a sun drenched morning to turn into grey and drizzly afternoon. A change in seasons also brings about a shift in the wind, from the Antarctic South to the Amazonian North.

---

Primavera

At the end of every August comes Santa Rosa, a storm that marks the end of winter and the beginning of spring. Santa Rosa brings rain, winds, and plunge in temperatures for nearly a week. As the storm is predictable, Uruguayans speak of her with excitement, knowing that winter is coming to a close and soon the flowers will bloom as the days grow longer and warmer.

Montevideans linger on the street later and lounge in the parks and plazas longer. Street asados spring up on warm weekends and an afternoon on the beach with maté and friends is the perfect way to spend a Sunday. A harbinger of spring is tucked away in the Pocitios neighborhood where a tiny street lined with cherry blossoms begin bloom just as Santa Rosa leaves town.

The prices of fruits and vegetables starts to drop noticeably in the spring. Though the markets always have seasonal fruits available, the price of strawberries, peaches, and pears (all my favorites) plummets as summer approaches. Two kilos costing what a half-kilo did in winter. Spring lasts from mid-to-late September until about early-November. Though wet and rainy at times, there are weeks of ample sunshine with cool breezes, the perfect temperature for open windows.

---

Verano

When people think of Uruguay, the image of warm sunny beaches is usually one of the top things that comes to mind. The stretch of coast from Montevideo to the Brazilian border is spectacular and a must for the summer months. Summer is taken very seriously by Uruguayans (not to mention a substantial portion of well-heeled Argentines and Brazilians).

Starting the week of Christmas (Family Day in Uruguay) and continuing until roughly mid-March, summer is in full swing. The two weeks around the New Year are often a mandatory vacation for many employees in Uruguay. Government offices close, as do most stores and restaurants. It is truly a break for everyone, and much needed after the sprint to close the year.

For those that have the means, those two weeks, or more, are spent either on the coast or in the interior of the country on a ranch. The streets of Montevideo feel like a ghost town from late-December until late-January. Until carnival activities begin the only place to people watch are the beaches in the city—although many locals don't consider it a "beach" since the water is still quite murky from the river. School does not return to session until mid-March, so many families will spend January or February out of town. The beach towns from Punta del Este to La Pedrera team with tourists from all over the world. Summer in Uruguay is a time for relaxation, fun, being outside in nature, and taking in the sunset every evening.

---

Ontoño

Though summer definitely arrives with a bang, its exit is much more muted. March turns into April, a delightful month, when the theatres reopen, restaurants spring to life, and the city returns to its buzzing self. There is day after day of beautiful warm sunny skies. How long will this weather last?

Then it is May, cultural events abound, the tourists have all departed, and dining al fresco continues until past midnight. Nothing more than a light jacket is needed, and even then often only after the sun has set. The dip in temperature after sunset, which slips below the horizon earlier each day, is the first indication that summer has truly passed.

The birds continue to sing and only a few of the leaves have started to change. The mornings are deliciously pleasant, accompanied with often warm afternoons. It is the evenings that hint at the cool soon come. Then, as we reach the shortest day of the year in late June, the leaves turn and the mornings grow cold. Winter is arriving.

---

Invierno

In contrast to our former coastal home, New York City, Montevideo stays humid yearround. This makes for a particularly damp winter. Though snow is nearly unheard of (though it does happen in the north of the country on occasion) and temperatures rarely go below freezing, the damp humidity often makes it feel much colder. While it is nice to not have frigid dry winds, a foot of brown slushy snow, and bone-chilling sub-zero temperatures, the dampness of Montevideo is, at times, unexpectedly cold.

While weather is a fairly neutral topic of conversation, winter in Uruguay, especially Montevideo, is rarely looked upon with joy or anticipation. Perhaps it is because winter in the United States is often associated with Thanksgiving, Christmas, and the New Year, a monthlong celebration I confess to still enjoy, that winter is seen as something exciting and joyous. In Uruguay, it is something loathed. It is only because summer exists that winter is tolerated, begrudgingly.

Winter blows into full force by late June and early July, peaking in August and concluding, hopefully, after Santa Rosa. Layers are a must. Thermals are essential, as is a good winter hat. Hoodies are popular and one of the best ways to stay warm on a windy day. Storms can be intense and last 2-3 days, though usually with some intermittent breaks.

---

Best of All Seasons

A calendar of distinct seasons is one of the reasons we enjoy living here. Each quarter of the year is unique, and we have come to associate each season with a national holiday or event that is special to Uruguay. One of our favorites, Día de Patrimonio, where historic and heritage buildings are open to the public, takes place the first weekend of October, during a beautiful stretch of sunny spring weather. With a unique coastal climate, Uruguay is truly enjoyable all year long.